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LEX’s SPRING CASE 2017

You will find 9 reds and 3 whites in this Spring case, and I snuck in a rose just to get you thinking about the warmer weather ahead. The origin of the wines is almost evenly split between Italy and France (5 from Italy, 7 from France). The Italian Gringolino is the lightest of the reds, and the Pic Saint Loup is the fullest. People are always looking for a wine to just serve friends without food, and of the whites, I would favor the Corzano, with the Soucherie Anjou Blanc being better with food. For the reds, the Gringolino, the Barbera, or the Rosso would be great as an apertif.

In my attempt to continually improve these seasonal cases of natural wine, we’ve added two new features to the write up. The first is, we have photographs of the families who make the wine. I find being able to see the people behind the wine makes my enjoyment of the wine more complete. We’ve also put the individual retail prices of the wines, because a game I continually play is to look at the color of the wine, to gently swirl it around and smell it, and then take a taste – finally guessing the price. If I guess $30, and the wine is $19.99, (which was the case with the Barbera) I get excited and make a mental note.

At the end of the write up, you’ll find the instructions on how to reserve a case and how to pick it up.

Lastly, we’re going to give you incentive to rate these wines from your taste. The rating will be done on a simple, 5-point scale.

1-I don’t like this

2-This is OK…

3-This is pretty good

4-This is really good

5-I love this and would like to buy some more

The way it’ll work is: there will be a card in each spring case with a way to evaluate the wines on this 5-point scale. If the card is turned in by the date specified on the card, your name will be entered into a drawing for a special bottle from my cellar.

And now for the wines: 

Chateau Soucherie ‘Anjou Blanc’

Estate: Chateau Soucherie

Vintage: 2014

Price: $18.75

Grapes: 100 percent Chenin Blanc

Chenin Blanc has always been a superstar in France’s Loire valley – where they make dry, sweet, and sparkling wine from the grape. But in the new world, they’ve never had much luck with it – except for maybe in South Africa. People preferred Sauvignon Blanc to Chenin Blanc. This, to my thinking, was Chenin’s advantage. The French producers made no effort to change the style of their wines when the world was mad for fat, oaky/buttery, tropical fruited whites. They just went on making lean, mineraly wines. This Chenin Blanc is crisp, and bright, and quite dry. It’s a light wine – best enjoyed at the table with a meal. I’d serve it with shellfish, any kind of spring salad with protein, or any other light spring fare.

Thibault of Chateau Soucherie

Fattoria Corzano e Paterno ‘Il Corzanello’

Estate: Fattoria Corzano e Paterno

Vintage: 2015

Price: $16.49

Grapes: 40% Chardonnay 40% Semillion 10% Trebbiano 10% Malvasia

2015 was a very warm year in Tuscany, and you can taste the rich ripeness of the fruit in this wine. In fact, one of the things I really like about the wine is the fuller mouthfeel… the texture. Of course the wine has the right amount of acidity to be really good at the table with all kinds of foods, but this wine could be enjoyed without food. I also like that the family decided that they could make a better wine if they planted some French varieties instead of just continuing on with only native Italian grapes. They planted a few rows in the early 90’s, and use the grapes to make this wine. The family has sheep that graze on the same land, and they make sheep’s milk cheese, so maybe it’s not a coincidence that this wine is so brilliant with cheese, especially a sheep’s milk cheese like Percorino.

Aljoscha Goldschmidt and Arianna Gelpke of Corzano e Paterno

Clos Cibonne Cuvée Tradition Rosé

Estate: Clos Cibonne

Vintage: 2015

Price: $25.49

Grapes: 90% Tibouren, 10% Grenache

I wanted to give you a head start on what’s to come – here’s the first rosé of the season. This was my favorite rosé last summer, and after tasting it, I had a friend in SC that bought a case.

This rosé from Provence is a favorite of many wine geeks. It’s made from an obscure and almost extinct French native grape, Tibouren. The winemaker André Roux has worked tirelessly to promote the appellation in Provence where he makes this wine, and he’s also been a champion of his grape. His granddaughter Bridget and her husband Claude Deforge inherited the task of reinvigorating the grape’s name; almost all of the Tibouren in production grows on his estate. This wine is aged on the lees for one year, giving it a fuller, more substantial mouthfeel than most rosés. I selected this wine because I’m very fond of the flavors, and there’s something to learn – which is this: not all rosés must be consumed quickly. In fact, this rosé improves over 2 or 3 years. I was happy to be able to select this rosé because it comes from 2015, which is drinking beautifully right now. If it’s warm enough to sit on the porch or the deck, and maybe grill out some chicken or fish, this would be your wine. Or if you’re inside, any lighter fares would pair well with this rosé.

Claude and Bridget of Clos Cibonne

Domaine des Schistes Illicio Rouge

Estate: Domaine des Schistes

Vintage: 2015

Price: $15

Grape: 40% Merlot, 32% Marselan, 28% Carignan

Domaine des Schistes was certified as an organic vineyard in 2015. It is located in the communes of Estagel, Tautavel, and Maury in the Agly Valley in Roussillon. I selected this wine because of the interesting complexity of flavors that you almost never find in a wine in this price range. The wine would pair well with any number of lighter meals – roast chicken would be something that would come to mind – or anything with mushrooms or tomatoes. Schistes is shale in Enlgish, and refers to the geological composition of the soil where the vineyards are – and often influences the final flavor of the wine.

Mickael of Domaine des Schistes

Le Caniette Rosso Piceno ‘Rosso Bello’

Estate: La Caniette

Vintage: 2011

Price: $13

Grape: 50% Sangiovese, 50% Montepulciano

This wine is an easygoing crowd-pleaser. The farm used to be devoted to animals; they raised cattle and prized stud bulls. In the 1940s Giovanni Vagnoni planted their first grapes, and his grandson increased the vineyard acreage in the 60s. They began bottling Rosso in 1990, and the current generation – Giovanni and Luigino Vagnoni – now farm 16 hectares. They farm organically in a vineyard with influencing limestone. Rosso Bello is a blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Montepulciano – both native grapes.

This Rosso is imminently quaffable, and not a wine that requires discussion or meditation. It’s simply a delicious wine and extraordinary for the price. It would be marvelous with burgers or pizza, and you’ll probably want 2 because as a quaffer it goes down easy.

Chateau Valcombe Ventoux Rouge

Estate: Chateau Valcombe

Vintage: 2014

Price: $14

Grapes: Blend of Rhone varietals

Ventoux AOC is a wine-growing region in the southeast of the Rhone region in France. The wine is a composition of Syrah, Carignan, Grenache, Cinsault, and Clarette. The vines average 50 years old, and some of the Carignan is 75 years old. Older vines produce more complex and full flavored juice. When I tasted this wine, I knew it would be a favorite…it’s easy to find its deliciousness. And, in fact, I’m betting on this wine to win the most liked in the spring case.

In my time at 3Cups, there was a Chateauneuf du Pape imported by Neal Rosenthal called Domaine Monpertuis. It was a staff favorite, and it had such beautiful clarity of fruit and structure. I was a regular purchaser of this wine. After talking with the folks at Rosenthal Imports, I wasn’t surprised to learn that the very same vigneron had purchased the vineyards at Ventoux and made more great wine. The estate Chateau Valcombe is 28 hectares in the heart of the Ventoux. After Paul Jeune purchased the vineyards and began making the wine, the wine world immediately took note. Paul had created another success. Paul has since decided to retire, but he trained successors Luc and Cendrine Guenard – it’s obvious they were very good students.

This wine has beautiful dark and spicy fruit, lively acidity, and overwhelming deliciousness. This is a fuller bodied red than many of the reds I generally select, but if I was a betting man, I’d bet it’ll be a favorite in the Spring Case. I’ve said many of the proceeding wines would be good with lighter spring fare – this wine should be selected with more substantial spring fare… maybe even a steak on the grill. If you don’t have any full spring meals, just save it for the fall.

Mas Foulaquier ‘L’Orphee’ Pic Saint Loup

Estate: Mas Foulaquier

Vintage: 2014

Price: $14

Grape: 50% Syrah, 50% Grenache Noir

I was thrilled to find a Pic Saint Loup among the wines available in the triangle. There’s an exciting new importer/distributor who just moved here from Seattle, Washington. Jason Tippetts and his wife Adrienne have a space in East Durham and are slowly building up inventory… Expect to see a steady stream of their wines in the seasonal cases. They share my sensibility about wine, have traveled to France (where I believe almost all of their wines come from) and have secured a group of estates that produce natural wine of extraordinary quality—and the prices are righteous. I was first introduced to Pic Saint Loup years ago by my friend and mentor Kevin Knox. He said to me, “Lex, I love the wines from France’s Rhone river valley, but they’re so expensive!” He said that one of his favorites is Chateauneuf du Pape, but it’s out of his price range. Then he told me that he found a wine that’s very similar that satisfied his taste for Chateauneuf du Pape. It’s called Pic Saint Loup, and the composition contains many of the great grapes of Chateauneuf du Pape – not all of them, but many.

So even though this red is a fuller bodied, ‘bigger’ red wine than you would think of serving in the springtime, when I tasted the wine with Jason, the price value proposition was so great I couldn’t pass it up.

The vineyards of Mas Foulaquier contain 12 hectares in the AOC of Coteaux de Languedoc Cru Saint Loup. It is in the commune of Claret, situated north of Pic Saint Loup. The vineyards sit on chalky-clayey hillsides with a southerly exposure at an elevation of 200 meters above sea level.

In the vineyard, Pierre Jequier has been farming biodynamically since 2006. You can see by his picture he’s a soulful man, and makes soulful wine.

Carussin Barbera d’Asti

Estate: Carussin

Vintage: 2015

Price: $19.99

Grape: Barbera

Another beauty from Jay Murrie at Piedmont Wine Imports. Jay has met Bruna Ferro and her sons Matteo and Luca, and has been to their vineyards. It’s a biodynamic farm, which is a step even beyond organic; they follow all of my criteria for a natural wine. Their farming practices, the way they handpick their grapes, the way they do not use any commercial yeast, and practice non-interventioninst winemaking in the cellar – it all adds up to a natural wine which yields a really fine example of Barbera. Barbera is one of the workhorse grapes of Italy, grown in many, many different regions. In Italy, everyone drinks wine with every meal, and the wine probably consumed the most is Barbera – which is grown all over Italy. I think Barbera reaches the pinnacle of fruition in Piedmonte; this one is from a province called Asti. I first tasted this wine at Pizzeria Toro where it was offered as a wine by the glass. I was immediately smitten. When I called to find out the it achieved what I’m always hoping for – to give you a whole lot of wine value in your glass for what you pay. This wine, for under $20, is a superstar in terms of wine value. I later shared a bottle with my family and friends, where it was a big hit, so I decided to put it in the Spring Case. This is a medium bodied red wine that’s full of flavor.

Matt Kramer says (in his fabulous book Making Sense of Italian Wine), “At its best, Barbera is a deeply colored red wine with lush, plush tastes of cherries, blackberries, raspberries, and a bit of spice. Significantly, it’s one of the least tannic red grapes in common production.” Barbera has refreshing acidity, which makes it a great red wine choice for richer fare.

Saccoletto ‘Il Carnalasca’ Gringolino

Estate: Saccoletto

Vintage: 2014

Price: $19.49

Grape: Gringolino

Gringolino is a favorite of mine – I like its light, elegant mouthfeel, the lower alcohol, and really everything about it. The Il Carnalasca hails from Monferrato in the NW of Italy. The estate has been developed by Daniele Saccoletto over the past 40 years, beginning from nothing. The property is 14 hectares (about 34.5 acres). This wine can be served as an apertif… make sure to pop it in the fridge for a few minutes before opening; the bottle should be slightly cool to the touch. This wine is 100% Gringolino – an ancient, native grape of Monferrato in the Piedmont of Italy. The agriculture is certified organic with hand picked fruit, natural fermentation, no industrial yeast, and a simple, traditional approach in the cellar to make the wine. Don’t serve this to a guest for whom Malbec is their favorite wine – It’s a polar opposite of the thick, high alcohol wine from Argentina.

How to order: You can call the Bulldega (919-680-4682) or send an email to Jay Connor (jay@bulldega.com) who I work with to put these seasonal cases together. Just tell him how many cases you’d like, how you’d like to pay, and approximately when you’d want to pick them up.

NOTE: Unfortunately we cannot ship the wine. 

How to pay: You can pay with credit card when you pick the wine up, or you can pay with the credit card when you call to order, which gives you more latitude on when to pick it up. If your wine is paid for we’ll keep it for up to a month if you’re traveling when the pick up date starts.

When to pick up: The wine will be ready on Friday, April 13th, but it’s not necessary for you to pick it up exactly that day.

Thanks so much for your support. The next case will happen in the Fall.

Cheers,

Lex

Sumo…A brand new piece of fruit

My grandfather, Charlie Upchurch, had a love of food and was very particular about what he liked to buy and eat. Loved citrus fruit. He felt like it was the most exciting thing happening in February. He also loved baseball, and oftentimes would go to Florida to spring training. It was there he developed a greater knowledge and specific favorites when it came to citrus. Returning home with his new-found specifics, he’d be on the phone the next January ordering shipments of Indian River specific varietal grapefruit, and his favorite (and therefore, mine) the Temple orange – which I would describe as the most exotic, complex fruit on the market today. I’ll write another post about Temple oranges when they hit the shelves for their very short season, but I have a different story to tell today.
I walked into Whole Foods yesterday, and there was a nice display of a piece of citrus that was new to me. I walked closer to get a better look, and look for a produce worker to possibly get a taste. The sign said ‘Sumo Mandarins’ and had a little blurb. The piece of fruit is amazingly well named because there are a number of things about its appearance that remind you of a sumo wrestler – it’s large, with a shapely bottom, and a prominent top-knot. I bought a couple that were heavy for their size, and which didn’t have bruised exteriors. When I tasted the fruit later in the day, it was one of those ‘Wowza’ experiences. This was the best citrus fruit I have eaten this year. It had some of the characteristics of a clementine – easy to peel, no seeds, sections easy to separate – but it was more assertive in the flavors, more complex, more high notes, and if a piece of fruit could be meatier, it was. I was back today to buy more, and we looked on the internet and this is a story we found:
“In the 1970’s a citrus grower from the Kumamoto Prefecture in Japan set out to develop a fruit which would combine the best of the easy-to-peel Japanese Satsuma with the big, juicy, sweet oranges from California. Although he saw promise in an obscure tangerine-orange hybrid, this new fruit was challenging to grow. Thankfully, our grower persevered. Over time, he developed a series of methods for growing, pruning and thinning his trees, which is different from all other citrus.
It took over 30 years but his hard work was rewarded when recently, this new variety became the most prized citrus fruit in Japan and Korea. Following the Japanese tradition of offering the best fruit as a gift, one can find it in Tokyo gift shops, selling for up to $8 for a single piece of fruit! Now this legendary fruit, which is called Dekopon in Japan and Hallabong in Korea, is finally available for the enjoyment of consumers here in America.
Grown on our families’ farms in California’s Central Valley to the same exacting standards of the original Kumamoto farmer. It is the biggest mandarin you’ve ever seen. It has a distinctive shape with a prominent ‘top-knot.’ The peel is bright orange, bumpy and loose so it peels effortlessly. The delicate sections separate easily. It’s seedless, juicy without being messy, and it is quite probably the sweetest citrus you’ll ever eat.” – We got this text from a group of farmers in California that probably have secured rights to this hybrid mandarin. At this point, the fruit is not organic because a group of growers has rights to the variety, for now.  The way it usually works is if the commercial farmers are successful over a period of time, the hybrid will eventually be available to organic growers – but that might be 25 years from now.
I recommend you go try a few and see for yourself.

Finding Coffee in Oxford

In October, I was in Oxford Missisippi for 4 days attending the Southern Foodways Alliance (SFA), symposium. This was the third straight year I had attended. Last year I was staying in an Airbnb, so I schlepped a full coffee rig to make the morning coffee. The apartment where we stayed belonged to two twenty-something Ole Miss students, but that’s another story. They didn’t have much, but they had a stove so I could boil water—I brought everything else I needed in my suitcase: coffee beans, grinder, a cone filter, filters, a cone pour through, filters and a thermos for the coffee to drip into. It took up a lot of room in my suitcase—I couldn’t take nearly as many shoes as I wanted to.

This year, I was staying at a new hotel called The Graduate. It was on the square in downtown Oxford, so I assumed I could find a good place to get a morning cup. I tried all the local coffee shops, no luck. I should tell you that a coffee company from Birmingham, Alabama, Royal Cup, sets up a truck at the SFA symposium and makes good coffee – espresso drinks and pour over in a Chemex. So you can get a good cup, but you have to wait until about 9:30 or 10 o’clock to do so. As early as I get up, I needed an early cup. It’s fashionable to bash any big box national retailer, and I’ve certainly been guilty of doing just that. But after asking other friends who were at the symposium if they’d found a good cup in Oxford and receiving a thumbs down from all I asked, my friend Peter and I did the unmentionable—we headed to Starbucks.

Starbucks has been the brunt of so many jokes. They’re called Charbucks (since they so often burn the coffee by roasting it too darkly) and they’re responsible for the Latte devolution…how the frappuccino and pumpkin spice lattes and the like killed the connoisseurship and evolution of coffee culture in America. Before you stop reading and start cursing me, hear me out. Not all, but some Starbucks, have an brilliant piece of equipment called a Clover. Here’s a link:

http://sprudge.com/breaking-is-this-a-three-group-super-automatic-clover-38905.html

It’s my understanding that the Clover was designed by two Stanford engineers hired by a coffee company from Seattle. The machine essentially has mechanized what happens in a French Press. I’m familiar with the Clover machine because I remember the food show where the inventors were displaying the Clover, and I even considered buying one for 3Cups. But they were wildly expensive and we were using a manual French Press method at the time which I thought was just as good. Here’s what happened: Starbucks liked the technology and bought the company, and so now, the only place where you can experience coffee made by the Clover is at Starbucks.

http://www.slashgear.com/forget-lattes-starbucks-next-coffee-trend-might-finally-be-the-clover-02284549/

Here’s the way the Clover option works at Starbucks: Remember—not all Starbucks locations have a Clover. The locations that have a Clover machine are called “reserve stores.”

Here’s how it works:

They have a board behind the counter where you can pick, in the case of the Oxford location, six different origins. I selected the coffee from Guatemala. The coffee is weighed, ground, and put into the Clover machine, where the water, at perfect temperature, is mixed with the coffee grounds. The barista stirs the mix, and then, at just the right amount of infusion time, the machine separates the grounds from the liquid coffee.

The barista handed me the cup. I took a sip. And the verdict? Fantastic. And it was clear to me that it was oh so much better than the small, local shops in town.

I’ll bet Starbucks, given their infrastructure and buying team, in fact might buy special coffees for their Clover machine stores. I’ve since learned that they do. They ship seasonal small-lot origin coffees roasted in a special facility in Seattle to their reserve stores. I know they roast the coffees differently; the Guatemalan I had was a perfect medium roast, with not a hint of carbon flavor from roasting too dark.

Peter and I went back the next morning and I tried a different origin, an Ethiopian, and, it too was excellent. I started out both mornings with a ceramic mug, I had to get back to the symposium for the next lecture, so I took the rest of my coffee in a to-go cup.

I was embarrassed to carry a Starbucks cup into a crowd of food lovers because I knew they would immediately judge me and think I was a traitor. So I actually poured my coffee into a travel mug to destroy the evidence.

There are not many times when I’m stuck in a strange place and Starbucks is my best option.

I was recently in Charlotte and found a Starbucks with a Clover machine. I had told my brother Chuck about this experience in Mississippi, and he said he’d like to go and have a cup from the Clover. So, off we went, to fetch a Clover cup. At this particular Starbucks, they had the same features as the Starbucks in Oxford – a board behind the counter, which read ‘reserve coffees’ with the origins on the left and a short description on the right.

So if you have a Starbucks in your town, before you judge them too harshly, call and ask if they’re a reserve store or if they have a clover machine. But remember to bring your travel mug if you don’t want evidence that you’ve been visiting the mermaid.

Our Friend Across the Way

 (for Lex on his birthday – by AMH)

Like a moth forced
To fly in daylight
He crosses the way
Like the aroma of clematis in autumn.
He brings
Cool Italian shirts
Kenyan Coffee
Carolina dogs and grilled burgers
Pastel drawings on brown paper
And tales of Shiloh.
(She wears his cap.)
Goddess of the turn house.

Like a constant waxing moon.
He crosses
Golfing all the way
Straight and down the middle
(Until Ollie barks his entrance.)
Bringing
Bread that will not mold
Butter from contented cows
Fried chicken (all we can eat elegantly.)
One, just one, belly laugh at PTI
Staying awake until the moon is up
Again, and he can cross back.

Hidden (but not to Ollie)
In the belly of a wooden horse.
He brings
We never know.
A palate like a comfy chair
A paperless, endless recipe
For anything.
A history of grits
A jar of best beans
A box (a box?) of discovered wine
A tale from within a Tuscan village
Conquered, forever in his debt.

Then,
From a calm, from a yellow sky
He bursts
Always standing
Always with an eye
Just for you (or for the next)
With a Poem.
He begins
Your neck stiffens.
He ends
Cradling your heart.
A beauty to you.

And a beauty to you, too.
Our friend from across the way.

Coffee Deliciousness

This is a long post (and quest) to find delicious coffee for me to brew in the morning. If you don’t brew coffee at home, this might be too much for you to want to read with its accompanying links. The bottom line is that I believe that today’s best roasters, called the Third Wave – have gone too far and are going too lightly, not allowing the natural sugars to develop to produce what I consider to be a delicious cup.

I hope that there will be a Fourth Wave of roasters and retailers featuring a City Roast. Since I began gathering information for this post, I have found a couple of coffees that are tasting just right to my palate. I consulted with Grant Tennille and Badi Bradley, who got some Panther coffee for me from Miami. I have enjoyed their East Coast blend. Locally I have bought Intelligentsia’s Rwandan coffee, which I sampled at Market Street in Chapel Hill. The story of how the women of Rwanda have worked to reestablish coffee as an origin is a great story for another time. MAny of you probably remember it from 3 Cups, as we featured it prominently.

Here’s where I was a few months ago (thankfully my morning coffee is improving):

When I make my morning coffee I often don’t like the result. If it is roasted an eyelash too dark with any hint of carbon flavors I can’t drink it. On the other side of the spectrum, I often find I don’t enjoy the coffees that are roasted too lightly.

In my opinion it parallels the way craft brewers have overcorrected from the atrocities of Budweiser to create a beer that is too hoppy, alcoholic and in your face. Every once in a while I get a coffee that really tastes right to me. When I have asked what the roast level or Agtron number is, it seems what Kevin Knox describes as a City Roast. When I have asked a roaster the Agtron number on a coffee that I really liked, the answer has been an Agtron level of 74 or 75. Agtron is a spectrophotometer that is used to measure degree of coffee roast precisely.

It is appropriate to say that Kevin Cox has forgotten more than I know about coffee. Here’s a link to his site, Coffee Contrarian. Here’s what Kevin has to say about my coffee dilemma. He’s specifically addressing my issue with coffee being over roasted and how Peet’s and Starbucks began a trend with good intentions that were associated to a specific location and roasting conditions. Dark roasting has gotten out of hand. The American culture enjoys plenty of sugary syrup and cream to make those burnt tasting coffees drinkable.

Here’s a little history from Kevin:

“Peet’s opened in 1966. Alfred Peet had a coffee background, but learned the retail side and much else working behind the counter at Freed, Teller & Freed, the great San Francisco roaster-retailer on Polk Street that I’m sure you visited. Alfred didn’t seem to give Freed’s much credit, but they and not Peets were the true specialty coffee pioneers in the Bay area, predating Peet’s by 67 years – and they did the classic Full City Roast to perfection!

The Peet’s roast style was the product of Alfred’s taste, his ability to source super high-acid, dense, high-grown coffees of a quality not previously seen very often if at all in the United States, AND the naturally soft Bay area water, which allowed the modest acidity of his darkly-roasted coffee to still be perceptible (something that would not have been the case with even moderatly hard water). One has to bear in mind that both Alfred Peet and the founders of Starbucks never intended their companies to be anyting but local, so the roast style and brewing were 100% dialed in to their particular place.

Jerry Baldwin, the most articulate of the three founders of Starbucks, once told me that he wished that roasters and roast styles could be local and regional the way great beer breweries were many years ago. I think that during the late 70’s and 80’s he regarded George Howell’s Coffee Connection as the East Coast equivalent of Peet’s, and I know for sure that he loved drinking their coffee and respected their roast style while preferring his own (and vice versa). Personally I still very much enjoy Indonesian coffees in particular from Peet’s, as I think they stand up to the roast style very well, provided the coffee is brewed in an Aeropress or commercial espresso machine. It’s the coffee equivalent of a good Russian Imperial Stout; not something I’d want for a steady diet, but okay once in awhile.”

Kevin has also answered my quest to find a full city roast. Here’s what he says about my inability to find the coffee that I really want to be drinking: “In recent years the classic full city roast, as represented by Freed, Teller & Freed, Schapira’s, Pannikin, Kobos, The Coffee Connection and others (including Allegro during my tenure) has become almost extinct, as Third Wavers push the envelope in the city-to-cinnamon roast range while Starbucks and Peets incinerate mostly crap. Counter Culture and Batdorf are just about the only readily-available coffees I find that are still roasted in that range….the rest is either lemon juice or charcoal.”

On my Facebook page, I included a couple articles about the other end of the spectrum, which is coffee being roasted too lightly. It doesn’t stay in the roaster long enough to develop the naturally occurring sugars in the bean, which I feel is what provides a delicious cup.

 

 

Additional Wine Importers

My last post was about finding good wines when there’s not a really good wine store. I provided a list of importers who’s wine should be found on the shelves of any wine store that’s paying attention.  I have thought of three other importers and I know that there are many more. All of these importers don’t just represent estates, they represent estates making natural wines of distinction. Meaning you get some special in your glass when you buy a bottle.

Here’s my importer additions: Jon David Hedrick Selections, Authentiquevin, and Vintage 59. Jon David Hedrick just celebrated his 10th year in business and represents the Loire region in France. Some would say that the Loire is epicenter of natural wine production in Europe.

Finding Good Wine

I am often asked from friends in other parts of the country how to go about finding the small estate natural wines that I am fond of and often write about. If there is not an “ahead of the curve” wine shop who is gathering a selection of these wines in one spot in your town or community then here’s what I recommend –

Before I start, I hear some people saying, “What is natural wine anyway?” Natural wine is a very fluid term used in a way like the term natural food was being used in the 60’s. I know what it means to me, but there is not a clear certifiable definition. Wine made with nothing added and nothing taken away, the way wine was made 100 years ago. Isn’t all wine made like that…absolutely not. In the same way that modern food science has been able to make a hostess Twinkie to sit on the shelf to approximate a pastry, modern food science has made wine a processed food. Here’s a good article that will explain my point: http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2009/11/03/how-wine-became-like-fast-food.html

So how do you find natural wine that tastes real and alive that you can feel good about drinking? There are about a dozen importers who have combed the European countryside in search of just this kind of wine. I recently was put to this same task while visiting friends in New Jersey. They asked if I would be willing to accompany them to the liquor store where they were often left to buy their wine. They are lucky enough to live close enough to NYC, but sometimes the liquor store will have to do. So when I was asked to join them to shop their local liquor store, I said, “Of course” – which was in a cinder block building with a gravel drive with pot holes the size of pick-up

Inside after scanning the shelves for anything recognizable, the salesman asked, “Can I help you?” I proceed to employ the same strategy I am about to give to you.  I asked, “Do you have any Kermit Lynch, Neal Rosenthal, or Joe Dressner selections?” He responded, “Let me get he buyer in the back room, he’s more familiar with what we’ve got.I think that we do.”

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I asked the wine buyer the same question and he said, “Indeed, we do.” He showed me a few bottles from each importer’s selection and I was able to find close to a case of wine that I would have bought myself. He also told me that they also had other Muscadet, Cru Beaujolais, and Malbec selections at better prices. There lies the trap. Sure, they are better prices. They are most often not natural wines nor are they nearly as good.

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Here are a few other of my favorite importers when looking for delicious and fairly priced natural wine- Andre Tamers of De Maison Selections – mostly Spanish wine and sherry, but adding some French estates. Terry Theise imports German and Austrian wines with also a selection of grower champagne. The Haw River Wine Man imports Italian wines. There are others, but I will stop with these now.

These are the one’s that more generic stores will have a better chance of having. If you go to a store that has none of these importers’ wines, it is a sign that the owners are asleep at the switch!

I welcome questions and comments. I will stop with this today.

We’re lucky to have lots of good independent stores in this area to keep you out of Trader Joe’s and Total Wine. I particularly like Parker and Otis in Durham, where I volunteer my time and passion in their wine department.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bargain Bubble for the Holidays

The other day a good friend said to me, “it’s the holidays and champagne is so festive. I would like to buy some, but I can’t afford it.” True champagne, meaning the kind that comes from the small AOC (appellation d’origine controlee) of Champagne, France is the most highly regulated wine on earth. Their goal is to make sure that no matter where on the planet that you buy a bottle, it will be good. The flip side is that it will never be cheap.

I had a bottle of sparkling wine at the festive and very tasty friends and family night at Juju in Durham. The wine was a Cremant d’ Alsace. The wine was excellent, dry, full of flavor, yet elegant and perfect with our meal. Thanks to Charlie Deal for the recommendation.

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Things to know about Cremant:

  • Cremant is one of the terms used to refer to sparkling wine not made in Champagne.
  • Cremant is known for being a more affordable sparkling choice than champagne.
  • It is the second most consumed sparkling wine by the French. They seem to have a good sense about such things.
  • Another thing to know is the winemakers practice methode champenoise to emulate a champagne experience for the drinker.
  • Depending on where the Cremant is made, will determine what grapes are used.
  • Other than the benefit of great sparkling wine at a reasonable price, most Cremant is produced by small growers. That’s a beauty!

Most people know about Cava from Spain and Prosecco from Italy. Today I wanted to share my Cremant experience!

A Beauty to Andre’ Tamers and to Sherry

Here’s a shout out to Andre` Tamers and the pioneering work he has done with an underdog in the wine world. He has taken sherry, an under appreciated wine, and re-introduced real sherry to America. It’s working! It’s catching on. Ann gave me this book, A Modern Guide to Sherry, which is beautifully written by Talia Baiocchi for our anniversary. I fell in love with it at the fifth page. Keep reading, I’ll show you why.

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Baiocchi says, “I had my second sip of sherry the year after I returned from Italy, when I wandered into Bar Jamon, a pocket square of a restaurant on Irving Place in New York’s Gramercy neighborhood, just down the block from the wine store where I worked. I went for the ham, but I left loving sherry. That night the bartender poured me the first real sherry I’d ever tasted: a chilled copita of oloroso. It was both incredibly foreign and totally familiar – like an old Barolo laced with iodine that was amplified, reduced, and somehow elegant despite its heft. It sparked that dull, joyous pulse in the gut that travels north, gains momentum in the chest, and releases all its pent up energy behind the eyes in the same way that good 90’s rock choruses, eggs with truffles on them, love, Barolo, and log rides do. It’s a variety of bliss, I guess; the kind that is best expressed through tears or dancing – or if you’ve had enough sherry, both.”

I am learning more about sherry and part of that is drinking it every now and then. I am not yet in the habit of wanting sherry when I want a drink to accompany my meal. I just had a copita (sherry glass) of El Maestro Sierra Amontillado (12 years old) at Mateo with my tuna melt. The sherry was amazingly different and satisfying.

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In my pursuit to learn more about sherry, I am lucky have Mateo Tapas as my neighbor, only 40 seconds of a walk away from my loft in Durham. Thanks to the collaboration between Matt Kelley and Michael Maller of Mateo and Andre` Tamers of De Maison Selections, I have one of the largest sherry offerings in the United States right here in my neighborhood.

If you think you don’t like sherry, I am going to recommend you give it another try. Head to Mateo to check out their selection. Their staff is knowledgeable about their sherry list and will assist you to find something you will enjoy.

A Love Affair with Lemons

My assistant, Shelly, and I both love the flavor of lemons. Last night we had a dish that we have been talking making about for weeks: Lemon Chicken. If you had been in the room with us last night, you may have laughed and suggested that we reminded you of Forrest Gump, how he continually listed all of the ways that one might enjoy shrimp. We listed all of the lemon dishes we love: lemon vinaigrette, lemon pasta, lemon pot de creme, lemon pie, lemon tart, lemon curd, lemon soufflé – we decided to stop at that many. I was feeling like Forrest Gump… Shrimp burger…

Last night’s lemon chicken was made with bone-in chicken thighs- seared in a cast iron pan and finished in the oven. Right before the chicken was finished roasting, Shelly poured a lemon sauce over the chicken and finished the thighs with a quick broil to keep the skin nice and crispy.

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I have said before that if we compare food to music, I like high notes better than low one’s- the treble better than base. Maybe that’s why I love lemon. Last year’s trip to the Amalfi coast and sampling all the regional lemon dishes from that part of the world was a peak experience.

Since Shelly did the lion’s share of the cooking and the photography, I’m going to let her post that recipe on her site lovingfooandlife.com. We’ve decided to post about this dish on each of our blogs. Watch for the recipe later this week. I will let you know when it goes live.