In October, I was in Oxford Missisippi for 4 days attending the Southern Foodways Alliance (SFA), symposium. This was the third straight year I had attended. Last year I was staying in an Airbnb, so I schlepped a full coffee rig to make the morning coffee. The apartment where we stayed belonged to two twenty-something Ole Miss students, but that’s another story. They didn’t have much, but they had a stove so I could boil water—I brought everything else I needed in my suitcase: coffee beans, grinder, a cone filter, filters, a cone pour through, filters and a thermos for the coffee to drip into. It took up a lot of room in my suitcase—I couldn’t take nearly as many shoes as I wanted to.
This year, I was staying at a new hotel called The Graduate. It was on the square in downtown Oxford, so I assumed I could find a good place to get a morning cup. I tried all the local coffee shops, no luck. I should tell you that a coffee company from Birmingham, Alabama, Royal Cup, sets up a truck at the SFA symposium and makes good coffee – espresso drinks and pour over in a Chemex. So you can get a good cup, but you have to wait until about 9:30 or 10 o’clock to do so. As early as I get up, I needed an early cup. It’s fashionable to bash any big box national retailer, and I’ve certainly been guilty of doing just that. But after asking other friends who were at the symposium if they’d found a good cup in Oxford and receiving a thumbs down from all I asked, my friend Peter and I did the unmentionable—we headed to Starbucks.
Starbucks has been the brunt of so many jokes. They’re called Charbucks (since they so often burn the coffee by roasting it too darkly) and they’re responsible for the Latte devolution…how the frappuccino and pumpkin spice lattes and the like killed the connoisseurship and evolution of coffee culture in America. Before you stop reading and start cursing me, hear me out. Not all, but some Starbucks, have an brilliant piece of equipment called a Clover. Here’s a link:
It’s my understanding that the Clover was designed by two Stanford engineers hired by a coffee company from Seattle. The machine essentially has mechanized what happens in a French Press. I’m familiar with the Clover machine because I remember the food show where the inventors were displaying the Clover, and I even considered buying one for 3Cups. But they were wildly expensive and we were using a manual French Press method at the time which I thought was just as good. Here’s what happened: Starbucks liked the technology and bought the company, and so now, the only place where you can experience coffee made by the Clover is at Starbucks.
Here’s the way the Clover option works at Starbucks: Remember—not all Starbucks locations have a Clover. The locations that have a Clover machine are called “reserve stores.”
Here’s how it works:
They have a board behind the counter where you can pick, in the case of the Oxford location, six different origins. I selected the coffee from Guatemala. The coffee is weighed, ground, and put into the Clover machine, where the water, at perfect temperature, is mixed with the coffee grounds. The barista stirs the mix, and then, at just the right amount of infusion time, the machine separates the grounds from the liquid coffee.
The barista handed me the cup. I took a sip. And the verdict? Fantastic. And it was clear to me that it was oh so much better than the small, local shops in town.
I’ll bet Starbucks, given their infrastructure and buying team, in fact might buy special coffees for their Clover machine stores. I’ve since learned that they do. They ship seasonal small-lot origin coffees roasted in a special facility in Seattle to their reserve stores. I know they roast the coffees differently; the Guatemalan I had was a perfect medium roast, with not a hint of carbon flavor from roasting too dark.
Peter and I went back the next morning and I tried a different origin, an Ethiopian, and, it too was excellent. I started out both mornings with a ceramic mug, I had to get back to the symposium for the next lecture, so I took the rest of my coffee in a to-go cup.
I was embarrassed to carry a Starbucks cup into a crowd of food lovers because I knew they would immediately judge me and think I was a traitor. So I actually poured my coffee into a travel mug to destroy the evidence.
There are not many times when I’m stuck in a strange place and Starbucks is my best option.
I was recently in Charlotte and found a Starbucks with a Clover machine. I had told my brother Chuck about this experience in Mississippi, and he said he’d like to go and have a cup from the Clover. So, off we went, to fetch a Clover cup. At this particular Starbucks, they had the same features as the Starbucks in Oxford – a board behind the counter, which read ‘reserve coffees’ with the origins on the left and a short description on the right.
So if you have a Starbucks in your town, before you judge them too harshly, call and ask if they’re a reserve store or if they have a clover machine. But remember to bring your travel mug if you don’t want evidence that you’ve been visiting the mermaid.
(for Lex on his birthday – by AMH)
Like a moth forced
To fly in daylight
He crosses the way
Like the aroma of clematis in autumn.
Cool Italian shirts
Carolina dogs and grilled burgers
Pastel drawings on brown paper
And tales of Shiloh.
(She wears his cap.)
Goddess of the turn house.
Like a constant waxing moon.
Golfing all the way
Straight and down the middle
(Until Ollie barks his entrance.)
Bread that will not mold
Butter from contented cows
Fried chicken (all we can eat elegantly.)
One, just one, belly laugh at PTI
Staying awake until the moon is up
Again, and he can cross back.
Hidden (but not to Ollie)
In the belly of a wooden horse.
We never know.
A palate like a comfy chair
A paperless, endless recipe
A history of grits
A jar of best beans
A box (a box?) of discovered wine
A tale from within a Tuscan village
Conquered, forever in his debt.
From a calm, from a yellow sky
Always with an eye
Just for you (or for the next)
With a Poem.
Your neck stiffens.
Cradling your heart.
A beauty to you.
And a beauty to you, too.
Our friend from across the way.
This is a long post (and quest) to find delicious coffee for me to brew in the morning. If you don’t brew coffee at home, this might be too much for you to want to read with its accompanying links. The bottom line is that I believe that today’s best roasters, called the Third Wave – have gone too far and are going too lightly, not allowing the natural sugars to develop to produce what I consider to be a delicious cup.
I hope that there will be a Fourth Wave of roasters and retailers featuring a City Roast. Since I began gathering information for this post, I have found a couple of coffees that are tasting just right to my palate. I consulted with Grant Tennille and Badi Bradley, who got some Panther coffee for me from Miami. I have enjoyed their East Coast blend. Locally I have bought Intelligentsia’s Rwandan coffee, which I sampled at Market Street in Chapel Hill. The story of how the women of Rwanda have worked to reestablish coffee as an origin is a great story for another time. MAny of you probably remember it from 3 Cups, as we featured it prominently.
Here’s where I was a few months ago (thankfully my morning coffee is improving):
When I make my morning coffee I often don’t like the result. If it is roasted an eyelash too dark with any hint of carbon flavors I can’t drink it. On the other side of the spectrum, I often find I don’t enjoy the coffees that are roasted too lightly.
In my opinion it parallels the way craft brewers have overcorrected from the atrocities of Budweiser to create a beer that is too hoppy, alcoholic and in your face. Every once in a while I get a coffee that really tastes right to me. When I have asked what the roast level or Agtron number is, it seems what Kevin Knox describes as a City Roast. When I have asked a roaster the Agtron number on a coffee that I really liked, the answer has been an Agtron level of 74 or 75. Agtron is a spectrophotometer that is used to measure degree of coffee roast precisely.
It is appropriate to say that Kevin Cox has forgotten more than I know about coffee. Here’s a link to his site, Coffee Contrarian. Here’s what Kevin has to say about my coffee dilemma. He’s specifically addressing my issue with coffee being over roasted and how Peet’s and Starbucks began a trend with good intentions that were associated to a specific location and roasting conditions. Dark roasting has gotten out of hand. The American culture enjoys plenty of sugary syrup and cream to make those burnt tasting coffees drinkable.
Here’s a little history from Kevin:
“Peet’s opened in 1966. Alfred Peet had a coffee background, but learned the retail side and much else working behind the counter at Freed, Teller & Freed, the great San Francisco roaster-retailer on Polk Street that I’m sure you visited. Alfred didn’t seem to give Freed’s much credit, but they and not Peets were the true specialty coffee pioneers in the Bay area, predating Peet’s by 67 years – and they did the classic Full City Roast to perfection!
The Peet’s roast style was the product of Alfred’s taste, his ability to source super high-acid, dense, high-grown coffees of a quality not previously seen very often if at all in the United States, AND the naturally soft Bay area water, which allowed the modest acidity of his darkly-roasted coffee to still be perceptible (something that would not have been the case with even moderatly hard water). One has to bear in mind that both Alfred Peet and the founders of Starbucks never intended their companies to be anyting but local, so the roast style and brewing were 100% dialed in to their particular place.
Jerry Baldwin, the most articulate of the three founders of Starbucks, once told me that he wished that roasters and roast styles could be local and regional the way great beer breweries were many years ago. I think that during the late 70’s and 80’s he regarded George Howell’s Coffee Connection as the East Coast equivalent of Peet’s, and I know for sure that he loved drinking their coffee and respected their roast style while preferring his own (and vice versa). Personally I still very much enjoy Indonesian coffees in particular from Peet’s, as I think they stand up to the roast style very well, provided the coffee is brewed in an Aeropress or commercial espresso machine. It’s the coffee equivalent of a good Russian Imperial Stout; not something I’d want for a steady diet, but okay once in awhile.”
Kevin has also answered my quest to find a full city roast. Here’s what he says about my inability to find the coffee that I really want to be drinking: “In recent years the classic full city roast, as represented by Freed, Teller & Freed, Schapira’s, Pannikin, Kobos, The Coffee Connection and others (including Allegro during my tenure) has become almost extinct, as Third Wavers push the envelope in the city-to-cinnamon roast range while Starbucks and Peets incinerate mostly crap. Counter Culture and Batdorf are just about the only readily-available coffees I find that are still roasted in that range….the rest is either lemon juice or charcoal.”
On my Facebook page, I included a couple articles about the other end of the spectrum, which is coffee being roasted too lightly. It doesn’t stay in the roaster long enough to develop the naturally occurring sugars in the bean, which I feel is what provides a delicious cup.
My last post was about finding good wines when there’s not a really good wine store. I provided a list of importers who’s wine should be found on the shelves of any wine store that’s paying attention. I have thought of three other importers and I know that there are many more. All of these importers don’t just represent estates, they represent estates making natural wines of distinction. Meaning you get some special in your glass when you buy a bottle.
Here’s my importer additions: Jon David Hedrick Selections, Authentiquevin, and Vintage 59. Jon David Hedrick just celebrated his 10th year in business and represents the Loire region in France. Some would say that the Loire is epicenter of natural wine production in Europe.
I am often asked from friends in other parts of the country how to go about finding the small estate natural wines that I am fond of and often write about. If there is not an “ahead of the curve” wine shop who is gathering a selection of these wines in one spot in your town or community then here’s what I recommend –
Before I start, I hear some people saying, “What is natural wine anyway?” Natural wine is a very fluid term used in a way like the term natural food was being used in the 60’s. I know what it means to me, but there is not a clear certifiable definition. Wine made with nothing added and nothing taken away, the way wine was made 100 years ago. Isn’t all wine made like that…absolutely not. In the same way that modern food science has been able to make a hostess Twinkie to sit on the shelf to approximate a pastry, modern food science has made wine a processed food. Here’s a good article that will explain my point: http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2009/11/03/how-wine-became-like-fast-food.html
So how do you find natural wine that tastes real and alive that you can feel good about drinking? There are about a dozen importers who have combed the European countryside in search of just this kind of wine. I recently was put to this same task while visiting friends in New Jersey. They asked if I would be willing to accompany them to the liquor store where they were often left to buy their wine. They are lucky enough to live close enough to NYC, but sometimes the liquor store will have to do. So when I was asked to join them to shop their local liquor store, I said, “Of course” – which was in a cinder block building with a gravel drive with pot holes the size of pick-up
Inside after scanning the shelves for anything recognizable, the salesman asked, “Can I help you?” I proceed to employ the same strategy I am about to give to you. I asked, “Do you have any Kermit Lynch, Neal Rosenthal, or Joe Dressner selections?” He responded, “Let me get he buyer in the back room, he’s more familiar with what we’ve got.I think that we do.”
I asked the wine buyer the same question and he said, “Indeed, we do.” He showed me a few bottles from each importer’s selection and I was able to find close to a case of wine that I would have bought myself. He also told me that they also had other Muscadet, Cru Beaujolais, and Malbec selections at better prices. There lies the trap. Sure, they are better prices. They are most often not natural wines nor are they nearly as good.
Here are a few other of my favorite importers when looking for delicious and fairly priced natural wine- Andre Tamers of De Maison Selections – mostly Spanish wine and sherry, but adding some French estates. Terry Theise imports German and Austrian wines with also a selection of grower champagne. The Haw River Wine Man imports Italian wines. There are others, but I will stop with these now.
These are the one’s that more generic stores will have a better chance of having. If you go to a store that has none of these importers’ wines, it is a sign that the owners are asleep at the switch!
I welcome questions and comments. I will stop with this today.
We’re lucky to have lots of good independent stores in this area to keep you out of Trader Joe’s and Total Wine. I particularly like Parker and Otis in Durham, where I volunteer my time and passion in their wine department.
The other day a good friend said to me, “it’s the holidays and champagne is so festive. I would like to buy some, but I can’t afford it.” True champagne, meaning the kind that comes from the small AOC (appellation d’origine controlee) of Champagne, France is the most highly regulated wine on earth. Their goal is to make sure that no matter where on the planet that you buy a bottle, it will be good. The flip side is that it will never be cheap.
I had a bottle of sparkling wine at the festive and very tasty friends and family night at Juju in Durham. The wine was a Cremant d’ Alsace. The wine was excellent, dry, full of flavor, yet elegant and perfect with our meal. Thanks to Charlie Deal for the recommendation.
Things to know about Cremant:
- Cremant is one of the terms used to refer to sparkling wine not made in Champagne.
- Cremant is known for being a more affordable sparkling choice than champagne.
- It is the second most consumed sparkling wine by the French. They seem to have a good sense about such things.
- Another thing to know is the winemakers practice methode champenoise to emulate a champagne experience for the drinker.
- Depending on where the Cremant is made, will determine what grapes are used.
- Other than the benefit of great sparkling wine at a reasonable price, most Cremant is produced by small growers. That’s a beauty!
Most people know about Cava from Spain and Prosecco from Italy. Today I wanted to share my Cremant experience!
Here’s a shout out to Andre` Tamers and the pioneering work he has done with an underdog in the wine world. He has taken sherry, an under appreciated wine, and re-introduced real sherry to America. It’s working! It’s catching on. Ann gave me this book, A Modern Guide to Sherry, which is beautifully written by Talia Baiocchi for our anniversary. I fell in love with it at the fifth page. Keep reading, I’ll show you why.
Baiocchi says, “I had my second sip of sherry the year after I returned from Italy, when I wandered into Bar Jamon, a pocket square of a restaurant on Irving Place in New York’s Gramercy neighborhood, just down the block from the wine store where I worked. I went for the ham, but I left loving sherry. That night the bartender poured me the first real sherry I’d ever tasted: a chilled copita of oloroso. It was both incredibly foreign and totally familiar – like an old Barolo laced with iodine that was amplified, reduced, and somehow elegant despite its heft. It sparked that dull, joyous pulse in the gut that travels north, gains momentum in the chest, and releases all its pent up energy behind the eyes in the same way that good 90’s rock choruses, eggs with truffles on them, love, Barolo, and log rides do. It’s a variety of bliss, I guess; the kind that is best expressed through tears or dancing – or if you’ve had enough sherry, both.”
I am learning more about sherry and part of that is drinking it every now and then. I am not yet in the habit of wanting sherry when I want a drink to accompany my meal. I just had a copita (sherry glass) of El Maestro Sierra Amontillado (12 years old) at Mateo with my tuna melt. The sherry was amazingly different and satisfying.
In my pursuit to learn more about sherry, I am lucky have Mateo Tapas as my neighbor, only 40 seconds of a walk away from my loft in Durham. Thanks to the collaboration between Matt Kelley and Michael Maller of Mateo and Andre` Tamers of De Maison Selections, I have one of the largest sherry offerings in the United States right here in my neighborhood.
If you think you don’t like sherry, I am going to recommend you give it another try. Head to Mateo to check out their selection. Their staff is knowledgeable about their sherry list and will assist you to find something you will enjoy.
My assistant, Shelly, and I both love the flavor of lemons. Last night we had a dish that we have been talking making about for weeks: Lemon Chicken. If you had been in the room with us last night, you may have laughed and suggested that we reminded you of Forrest Gump, how he continually listed all of the ways that one might enjoy shrimp. We listed all of the lemon dishes we love: lemon vinaigrette, lemon pasta, lemon pot de creme, lemon pie, lemon tart, lemon curd, lemon soufflé – we decided to stop at that many. I was feeling like Forrest Gump… Shrimp burger…
Last night’s lemon chicken was made with bone-in chicken thighs- seared in a cast iron pan and finished in the oven. Right before the chicken was finished roasting, Shelly poured a lemon sauce over the chicken and finished the thighs with a quick broil to keep the skin nice and crispy.
I have said before that if we compare food to music, I like high notes better than low one’s- the treble better than base. Maybe that’s why I love lemon. Last year’s trip to the Amalfi coast and sampling all the regional lemon dishes from that part of the world was a peak experience.
Since Shelly did the lion’s share of the cooking and the photography, I’m going to let her post that recipe on her site lovingfooandlife.com. We’ve decided to post about this dish on each of our blogs. Watch for the recipe later this week. I will let you know when it goes live.
The mincemeat making happened yesterday with Cindy, Ann, and Shelly. When I tasted our mincemeat before heading to bed last night, I said, “this may be the best we’ve ever done.” I could have been swayed a little by Gillian’s exuberant remarks after she tasted it when she came over for dinner last night. The mincemeat is done, so this story is about the Pumpkin Pumpkin pie.
In the early days of wellspring, we had a very talented woman, Anne Clarke, who had worked for a restaurant group in Center City Philadelphia. I asked Anne if she had any ideas for turning an ordinary pumpkin pie into something extraordinary and delicious. She developed the pumpkin-pumpkin pie, which is a basic pumpkin pie with a pumpkin mousse layer on the top.
Pumpkin Pumpkin Pie became legendary in the Wellspring circles. We sold as many as we could make in the days before Thanksgiving. We printed the recipe on our grocery sacks for anyone to make at home.
Here are 3 things I like about the Pumpkin Pumpkin pie:
1) It looks festive and smashingly impressive
2) It eliminates any chance for a dry pumpkin pie
3) It eliminates the need to stop and whip cream before serving the pie
Ann makes this pie every year. Even though I cheer for the mincemeat to gain popularity, this pumpkin-pumpkin is everyone’s favorite.
Here’s the recipe:
Here’s the recipe: